Your Ultimate Guide to the Black Forest with Dogs: Unique Trails, Hidden Gems, and German Travel Secrets

The Black Forest (Schwarzwald) isn't just a backdrop for fairytales—it's one of Europe's most genuinely dog-friendly travel destinations. Picture hiking through endless, fragrant pine forests, stopping for a wine tasting with a bowl of water for your dog, or settling into a cozy, family-run Gasthaus after a day on the trails.

We've been exploring this German heartland for years, from the steep vineyards of Sasbachwalden to the historic lanes of Gengenbach. This isn't the standard tourist route; it’s a guide full of the local secrets, unique stays, and essential tips that only a dog-owner who travels here regularly would know.

Sasbachwalden: Vines, Waterfalls, and Woodland Trails

Known as the "village of flowers and wine," Sasbachwalden is an absolute treat for dogs due to its extensive network of trails that start right where you stay. The air is clear, there are lots of different routes, and the local Winzer (vintners) are incredibly welcoming.

Where to Stay

• Campingplatz Grässelmühle (in Sasbach) – Nestled between forest and vineyards, this tranquil site genuinely welcomes dogs on leashes. The small stream right on the edge is perfect for a quick paw dip. Direct access to great walking trails and the adjacent dog-friendly Gasthaus makes this a stress-free base.
  
  
• Hotel Engel Sasbachwalden – A traditional 3-star spot that welcomes dogs for a small nightly fee (€10-15). It’s perfectly located for walking to the Gaishöll waterfalls and vineyard paths. The staff here are known for their warm welcome to four-legged guests.
  
  
• Haus Bachschwalbe – A cozy guesthouse in a peaceful setting. Confirmed to allow pets (charges may apply), offering easy access to forest paths. Self-catering options are often the least restrictive for dogs.

• Campingplatz Murhof (in Ottenhöfen im Schwarzwald) – This campsite offers generous pitches and a relaxed atmosphere. There’s a swimming pool just across the road, and the surrounding trails are perfect for long morning walks.

Where to Eat

• Gasthaus zur Grässelmühle (in Sasbach) – Rustic, warm, and wonderfully local. Dogs are welcome inside and outside, and the homemade schnitzel and käsespätzle are excellent after a long day outdoors.
  
  
• Knusperhäuschen Sasbachwalden – This fairytale-style restaurant is a local favourite. Sit on the cozy terrace with your dog and enjoy classic German dishes and homemade cakes. Dogs are allowed inside on request.
  
  
• Alte Gott Winery – This is an institution in Sasbachwalden, and in the years we have been coming here, we have seen how it has developed.  There is a great roof terrace with lovely views, perfect for wine tastings and small bites. The frozen wine slush puppy is a must-try — refreshing, fun, and perfect after a vineyard walk.  Dogs are welcome during tastings, and there is plenty to buy from the shop.

Where to Play

• Gaishöll Wasserfälle Trail – A magical route through forest and waterfalls. Dogs love the cool, shaded paths and gentle stream crossings. A key tip: Go early to avoid human traffic, as some of the wooden bridges and steps can be narrow.
  
  
• Vineyard Trails Around Sasbachwalden – The local Weinlehrpfad (Wine Education Path) provides stunning valley views, especially at sunset. Always keep your dog on a leash here to respect the vines and any workers.
  
  
• Mummelsee & Hornisgrinde – Combine the Mummelsee (keep your dog leashed here) with the higher peak of Hornisgrinde. The trails up here are wide and open, offering some of the best long-range views in the Northern Black Forest.
  
  
• Wildnispfad (Wilderness Trail) – For adventurous, agile dogs, this route through the fallen trees and untouched forest is an adventure playground—a true taste of wild Germany.
  

Gengenbach: A Fairytale Town for You and Your Dog

Charming, colourful, and easily one of the prettiest towns in Germany, Gengenbach is a place you’ll want to linger. It’s small enough to explore on foot with your dog but packed with atmosphere, cobblestone lanes, and half-timbered houses that glow golden in the afternoon light.

Where to Stay

• Schwarzwaldhotel Gengenbach - Located centrally, this hotel allows dogs of any size (for an additional fee of around €18 per night), offering a peaceful base for exploring the town and surrounding trails. 

• Stadthotel Pfeffermühle – In the historic town centre, this 3-star hotel welcomes dogs (fee of around €12 per night). A very dog-friendly price point for a central location.
  
  
• Ferienwohnung Sester - This spacious apartment welcomes dogs of any size for an additional fee. Self-catering apartments give you the most flexibility, especially when traveling with multiple dogs or a large breed.
  
  

Where to Eat

• Restaurant Die Reichsstadt – Pets are allowed on request at this highly-rated hotel restaurant, which blends local ingredients with creative flair. (Pro Tip: Ask specifically for a terrace table when booking.)
  
  
• Rebstock Gengenbach – A traditional Gasthaus a short walk from the centre, well-known for welcoming dogs on their sunny terrace and having classic Black Forest specialities.

• Wirtshaus Lowen - Located near the centre, this traditional spot is a reliable choice. They have a good beer garden and are consistently dog-friendly.
  
  
• Café Honig – A lovely café with outdoor seating for a coffee and slice of cake while your pup relaxes under the table.
  

Where to Play

• Riverside Walks Along the Kinzig – Gentle, flat trails for easy walks or quick morning runs with your dog.
  
  
• Old Town Exploration – Wander the cobbled lanes early in the day before the crowds arrive. Look for the little wooden figures and town gates. A common sight in Gengenbach: many shops and cafés keep water bowls out for pets.
  
  
• Nearby Ortenberg Castle – A short drive or hike away, this medieval castle offers dog-friendly trails and sweeping views. The walk up is gentle and rewarding.
  
  

Baden-Baden: Elegant, Green, and Surprisingly Dog-Friendly

Baden-Baden might look grand, but its proximity to vast parkland and forest makes it a superb base for a dog trip, offering a mix of culture and deep nature.

Where to Stay

• Hotel am Sophienpark – Right in the town centre and next to a beautiful walking area. Pets are allowed for a nightly fee (around €35).
  
  
• Aqua Aurelia Suitenhotel – Right in the town centre and next to a beautiful walking area. Pets are allowed for a nightly fee (around €35).
  
  
• Reisemobil Stellplatz - Freizeitcenter Oberrhein – This motorhome park/campsite slightly further north but with great access to the Rhine and Black Forest trails, offering a quieter, nature-filled base.

Where to Eat

• Café König – A traditional patisserie that allows dogs on its outdoor terrace—the perfect spot for a coffee and a slice of Black Forest gateau.

• Geroldsauer Mühle – On the edge of town, this restaurant, market, and brewery complex has a large outdoor terrace where dogs are welcome. It’s surrounded by forest paths, ideal for a walk before or after your meal.

• Wirtshaus Molkenkur – Rustic German cuisine with outdoor seating and incredible scenic views of the valley. A perfect end-of-day stop.

Where to Play

• Lichtentaler Allee – A 2km-long parkland promenade lined with chestnut trees and sculptures. This is a very relaxed, on-leash walk that feels miles from the city centre.

• Geroldsauer Wasserfall – Just outside town, this forested waterfall trail is a short, easy walk where dogs can safely cool off in the stream.

• Merkur Mountain – Take the funicular railway (dogs allowed with a small ticket, usually a half-fare) or hike up to the summit for spectacular views. The top has open, grassy areas great for a picnic.

Other Dog-Friendly Highlights in the Black Forest

• Triberg Waterfalls – One of Germany’s tallest waterfalls. Dogs are welcome on-lead on the paid trails. A lesser-known alternative: Burgbachwasserfall near Bad Rippoldsau-Schapbach is less crowded, free, and equally impressive for a dog hike.

• Black Forest Open-Air Museum (Vogtsbauernhof) – Learn about traditional rural life with your dog by your side (leashed). It’s a great way to combine culture and an easy walk.

• Seebach and Ruhestein Area – This area is the gateway to the Black Forest National Park. While dogs must be on a leash throughout the National Park, this area offers extensive, peaceful forest walking routes and is much quieter than the main tourist spots.

Practical Tips for Travelling the Black Forest with Your Dog

Unique Black Forest Dog-Owner Tips

• Understanding Hundesteuer (Dog Tax): If you live in Germany, you pay a mandatory annual dog tax. As a visitor, you don't need to worry, but knowing this local custom explains why Germans are so responsible about picking up after their pets and respecting leash laws.
• The Leash Law Nuance (The Leinenpflicht): While Germany generally requires dogs to be leashed in towns, tourist sites, and vineyards, the Black Forest National Park has a strict, year-round Leinenpflicht (leash requirement) to protect wildlife. Respect this rule completely.
• Tick Removal is Mandatory: Forested areas are beautiful but full of ticks, especially from spring to autumn. Always carry a quality tick remover and check your dog (and yourself) thoroughly after every single walk, even a short one.
• Check the Footwear: Trails here can be a mix of soft earth, pine needles, and rough, loose shale. Use paw balm after long, rocky walks or simply apply a small amount of Vaseline before setting out to create a protective barrier.

General German Travel Tips

• Always carry cash (Bargeld) – Smaller family-run Gasthauses and remote farm shops often don’t take cards.
• Respect Local Etiquette – Dogs should be leashed in vineyards, especially during harvest, and near livestock (cows, sheep) in mountain meadows.
• Avoid Midday Heat in Summer – German summers can be hot. Early morning or late evening walks are best, and plan to spend the midday heat relaxing near a cool stream or in a shaded beer garden.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Is the Black Forest dog-friendly?

Absolutely. Most walking trails, the majority of family-run Gasthauses, and even wineries welcome dogs. Germany's strong outdoor culture makes it easy and enjoyable to explore the Black Forest with your dog.

Do I need to pay for my dog on public transport in the Black Forest?

Yes, for the most part. On regional trains (like the SWEG or DB Regio), larger dogs need a small ticket (usually a half-fare child's ticket) and often a muzzle, which you should always carry. Small dogs that travel in a closed carrier bag or box usually travel free. Always check the specific transport operator's rules before boarding.

Can dogs swim in the rivers and lakes?

Yes, in many smaller rivers and streams like the Kinzig or the Oos River's upper reaches, and many natural, unmonitored bathing spots. However, dogs are generally not allowed to swim in designated public bathing areas or in highly regulated lakes like Mummelsee itself due to conservation rules. Locals will happily point you to the best, secluded swimming spots nearby.

Are dogs allowed in restaurants?

Yes, many restaurants and especially traditional Gasthäuser welcome dogs, often with a bowl of water provided. They are nearly always welcome on terraces. In smaller, carpeted, or high-end establishments, it’s always best practice to ask "Darf mein Hund mit hinein?" (May my dog come inside?) first.

What’s the best season for a dog-friendly Black Forest trip?

Late spring through early autumn (May–October) offers the most pleasant temperatures, lush forests, and open vineyard walks. September and October are arguably the best, bringing golden leaves, grape harvest activity, and significantly fewer crowds than mid-summer.